Unexpected and Incredible: Mission San Xavier del Bac

It's always a delight to find something beautiful.  Mission San Xavier del Bac is beyond words.  Tucson is home to this gorgeous mission -- the longest continuously operating Spanish mission in the United States.

The plasterwork, the paintings, the statues -- they are all simply something to behold.  There is active art conservation, and I'm pretty sure the same conservators featured in the mission's video orientation are also featured in the 2019 Visit Tucson travel guide.

Take time to simply walk around -- I found small statues and almost missed a wonderful array of bas relief Stations of the Cross.

You will also want to visit the museum, a labor of love from the volunteers. It orients the visitor to some elements of Catholicism as needed.  And, just to make me very happy, it honors purple as the liturgical color of Advent.

We live in a time of lost geography -- GPS sometimes actually keeps us from knowing what we are near, what is on the way.  Google may be able to tell us exactly where we are on the planet, but we often have trouble contextualizing that.  San Xavier is absolutely a place I would have missed if not for asking a local for advice on other places that might be "interesting."  With that vague inquiry, something incredible emerged.

Things to Know

• This is a working church.  That's part of what makes it special.  Plan ahead if you are trying to attend/avoid service times.  
• There is plenty of onsite parking in a rutted lot.  Drive carefully.
• Two good places to start your visit: 1) Admiring the sanctuary and 2) Watching the overview video inside the museum.
• There's a gift shop with reasonable prices and a good selection of local and religious items.  There's also a small marketplace nearby (across the parking lot) with a few local artisans.

For Further Exploration

• The intersection of peoples and their religions is always fascinating.  Here's a starting point for the intersection of this native people group and the Catholic faith.
• I found out about this site while visiting Casa Grande.  One of the mission's first priests helped give Casa Grande its modern name.

A Stop to Appreciate: National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton

Slightly off the beaten path in Emmitsburg, MD, lies the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton, situated near one of the places where she founded an educational mission.  We always enjoy religious sites, but this one proved both exceptional and highly accessible.  Free to visit, visitors to the shrine are treated to a mini-museum, a basilica, and well-tended grounds.

When you arrive, request the opportunity to see the short video (about 12 minutes in length), which will provide you with an overview of Saint Seton's life -- and a compelling sense of how close in time we are to her canonization in the grand sweep of history.  Clips of a biographical movie of her life are also included and provide nice context.  Plan to spend thirty to ninety minutes ambling around in the small museum; it's professionally presented and worth your time to learn more about both the life of Seton and part of the history and tradition of the Catholic Church.  There's even a pictorial scavenger hunt for kids. Next, you will be treated to the grand basilica, a wonderful spot for reflection, Mass, or confession.  There are beautiful places to walk, including a lovely cemetery.

On the day of our visit, the local community was celebrating Mother Seton's birthday with a small festival "party" on the lawn.  There were numerous old-fashioned children's games, entertainments like face painting, and free treats like cupcakes and Italian ices for all.  G was so excited to have her face made up as a princess; E enjoyed the "passport" concept of having a booklet stamped at various stations and receiving a vintage postcard as a prize.  One of the highlights: having silhouettes cut by hand in a fascinating artistic tradition by Silhouettes by Hand.  Overall, the shrine maintains a calendar of activities that all appear enriching.

If you go, consider piggybacking on a trip to Harper's Ferry, WV; Gettysburg, PA; or Frederick, MD.  Take a little extra time and visit the nearby Grotto -- we spent a lot of time at the shrine and will need to return.  The Mount St. Mary's University campus is literally "right there" and certainly could make for a nice walk and visit.  There's also a gift shop at the shrine with very friendly staff--don't forget to visit! While certainly those of the Christian tradition are welcomed, the site has something to offer for those interested in history, art, culture, and nature as well.

Taking in Sacred Spaces: America's Catholic Church

DC is full of great sites to see--that's no surprise.  When in the city, though, get off the well-worn path and enjoy the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception, the largest Catholic church in North America.  The building contains about 70 chapels, small and large, with many references to international and ethnic diversity. Certainly a lesser-known DC site, it still brings home the current #15 spot (of 432) things to do in DC on Trip Advisor.

So, why would we recommend that you visit the Basilica, even if you are not Catholic?  Sacred sites are cultural sites.  The Basilica is full of impressive art (with few crowds) and the rich history and tradition of Catholicism.  Use a resource like the knowledgeable docents or a guidebook from the bookstore to help you notice details you might miss. For instance, the people pictured in the Vietnamese mural below are all martyrs, and we learned this from our tour guide.

For those of traditional Christian backgrounds, this site can definitely inspire worship whether you are Protestant, Catholic, or Orthodox.  You can come in agreeing with Catholic theology (or not), and still spend time in prayer and thought. If you are Catholic and wish to participate in sacraments, check the schedules for masses and confession.  This is an active church--we've also visited Washington National Cathedral, but while beautiful and interesting, that site feels much less like an active house of worship to us.  The church, often known as America's Catholic Church, is definitely a beacon for its faithful.  The Basilica is currently installing a dome mural honoring the Trinity, inspiring a thoughtful donation from E in front of this small section on display right now.  The mosaic is expected to be on view in December 2017, and we hope to visit.

If you go, simply take the Brookland-Catholic University of America red line Metro stop and walk up the hill--you'll find where you are going easily.  There's a cafeteria serving breakfast and lunch as well as a large gift shop and bookstore.  No matter the time of day, week, or liturgical season, do expect to see people in active worship, at least in some of the chapels.  Free tours are frequently available.  You are also very close to a Franciscan monastery that welcomes visitors--it's walkable from the site. Yes, we've been, but in the pre-blogging days.  Our understanding is that these buildings are some of the anchors of a growing Catholic community in DC, another reason to take in the neighborhood.

Upstate Carolinas: More than Just Driving Through

It may be common in our social circle to travel to Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, and to Atlanta, Georgia, as well as to have a layover flying in Charlotte, North Carolina.  However, we don't hear friends talking fondly of the drive through the broader nearby region--and that's really a mistake. On a recent surprise destination trip for G to Babyland General Hospital (the home of Cabbage Patch Dolls), we decided to do some exploring.

On the way south, Kim took Nana Lana, along with us, to Charlotte's Billy Graham Library.  Kim, Justin, and E had been a few years ago, but we figured Nana would particularly enjoy this site and that it would make a lovely stop again.  The Library makes an interesting (and free admission!) stopover easily accessible from the interstate system for anyone interested in recent movements in Christianity and/or recent American history.  The museum includes significant biography of Billy Graham and pictures of Graham meeting with various world leaders, although we've been disappointed twice not to see a picture of Graham and Pope John Paul II.  Do expect the site to encourage conversion to Christianity.  Kim, a "Heinz 57" Christian of multiple denominational backgrounds, does feel comfortable being from a non-Southern Baptist denomination there.  There's a gift shop as well as lovely, compact grounds to explore, including a simple grave site memorial to Ruth Graham, Billy's wife, which you see G admiring above.

On the way back north, we stopped to explore Greenville's much-photographed Falls Park on the Reedy, a truly lovely serpentine urban park showcasing the natural beauty apparent in the city.  We found a small, free parking lot right at the beautifully-engineered Liberty Bridge, affording awesome views of the falls. Yes, Kim and G climbed out on them--and you can, too, especially if you wear non-slip water shoes (slippery river rocks) and clothes you are comfortable getting wet.  Open 7 AM - 9 PM daily, the park has winding paths, manicured green spaces fitting for a picnic, and attractive benches as well as inventive seating like porch swings.  If you take time to do a little research in advance, you can also easily connect to restaurants and accessibility features like elevators.

Simply put: Don't let the interstate system numb you from the beauty and culture around you.  Stop driving every now and then.  You might even find less-unique but still fun and value-laden shopping stops like the Gaffney Outlet Marketplace, which we "found" twice on this trip as well.

Tabernacle Time: The Biblical Tabernacle Reproduction in Lancaster, PA

Inspired by a postcard show find, we had to see Biblical Tabernacle Reproduction at the Mennonite Information Center in Lancaster, PA.  Once there, we enjoyed an informative lecture on the tabernacle itself and were treated to a detailed presentation of the replica from a knowledgeable guide.  While not a "hands on" museum, the replica is built to Biblical size and includes all the Biblical details.  We found our guide, Roy, was able to explain what parts of the tabernacle story are Biblical and which ones have grown from extra-Biblical traditions.  It's a recommended stop for anyone with interest in Christianity or Judaism.

When we found the postcards that inspired our visit for all of 10 cents each, our Sunday School class was studying the tabernacle, in part using a small model you can buy at the center's impressive gift shop.  They sell tabernacle-related religious items, books, and local interest finds like Amish Country postcards and Sight and Sound Theater DVDs--and host a Ten Thousand Villages fair trade shop.  And yes, they have site-specific postcards of the tabernacle replica--a good thing, because in the main section of the reproduction, there's a no photos rule (forgive the lack of photos here).  You can even shop their online store. 

If you go, expect a very friendly, accommodating staff.  They genuinely wanted to meet our needs and were quite pleased we were traveling with children.  The staff can point you towards many local activity options, including guided farm tours.  The center is directly across from Tanger Outlets--yes, you could walk between the sites.  If you are on the road with small children, see our previous blog about nearby Dutch Wonderland.  If you are traveling with a history buff, know you are about an hour from Gettysburg!

Surprising Charlotte

For Father's Day, Elijah and Kim gave Justin a "surprise trip" to the Billy Graham Library in Charlotte, NC.  Justin and Kim are enthralled with Reverend Graham's access to statespeople and the level of history he witnessed, and when Kim discovered the trip was a shorter drive than expected, it became the centerpiece of Father's Day weekend.  The trip was pretty perfect--and in one day, we had a "vacation feeling."

While Christians may be more comfortable there, we'd recommend the Billy Graham Library to any of our friends interested in religion, politics, American culture, and/or museum design.  The experience at the modern library is immersive--much video, exhibit rooms designed to give a sense of place, artifacts selected to appeal to a broad audience.  The videos are an effective montage of Graham quotes, but the museum is more about the reach of his ministry than him per se.  If you go, know the volunteers are very friendly.  There's a large bookstore with Christian classic titles and books by the Graham family--but for books about Reverend Graham by others, head to the nearby Barnes and Noble. 

And it was in driving around looking for said Barnes and Noble that we found the James Polk historic site--a tribute to a President who, as Justin points out, was efficient, honest, and productive (and perhaps sadly therefore, largely unknown in popular history).  We received a very warm welcome at the small complex, a vistor's center as well as a small museum.  A quick tour of the grounds, including an interesting cemetery, is possible in 30-45 minutes. 

We can't believe Charlotte, the "Queen City," had escaped our notice for so long.  It's more of a major city than we understood, and there's definitely more to do there than we realized.  We'll be back!  Nearby attractions on the to-do list:  Levine Museum of the New South and Reed Gold Mine.

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@TheBGLibrary
@Charlottgotalot

An Eclectic Day in Greensboro

Feeling the need for a little spring travel, Kim encouraged the family to drive to Greensboro, NC, for the day.

We'd been looking forward to taking in the International Civil Rights Center and Museum since it opened in February 2010. The museum is housed in the former Woolworth store building where the 1960s sit in occurred. Several of the art deco store features remain and are a delight to see. The museum's focal point--the lunch counter itself--is hallowed, presented on its initial footprint. It is much larger than we expected, and as Justin aptly put it, it is pretty amazing that it was never moved given the context of the 1960s south. There are also some interesting artifacts in the museum, including a "two-sided" Coke machine made for segregated waiting rooms and of which there are thought to be only 10 in existence (the other 90that were made having been destroyed, apparently, by Coke itself). We really, really appreciate the sprit of the museum, but we would make two critiques: 1) there seemed to be a need for coordination of the multiple tours scheduled on the day of our visit, and 2) we wish the museum would focus on the Greensboro location and local history more definitively in its mission, as the international idea seems broad for now. If you go, expect a guided tour, seek to educate yourself on the museum artifacts by means other than simply reading placards (buy the newspaper supplement describing the museum opening in the gift shop for help), and allot significant possible wait time if you do not schedule your visit with the museum itself.

Following our visit, we headed a few blocks up to Greensboro's Mellow Mushroom--yum! Mellow Mushrooms are such classy pizza joints! We spent only about $20 and had a fresh-made pizza we "designed" along with a yummy soft pretzel appetizer, and Elijah got to sit in a tie-dyed high chair. This Mellow Mushroom location is decorated in a hip gothic style with several throwbacks to old churches including ornate lettering and a pulpit-like hostess stand. Great place to take in lunch!

On the way back up 220, we stopped at Edward McKay Used Books and More, quite an impressive bookstore. Some perks? Inexpensive prices, fun atmosphere, well-organized collection that takes pains to separate "lay" from "professional" books, T-shirts and tote bags for sale... If Kim could add anything, it would just be a postcard to buy! Several families in the children's section were talking about allowing their children to pick a certain number of books per trip to the store, much like one might do by giving a child $5 at the Dollar Tree. What a great idea--with much better results likely!

Continuing our drive, we made a brief pit stop at Mt Tabor United Methodist Church's Talking Mural exhibit as we neared the Virginia state line. The exhibit signs have always intrigued us, and today, we drove by beyond its operating hours (10-4, Monday-Saturday) but found it open anyway. The people of the church have made their house of worship a rest stop of sorts, complete with a playground for kids. They offer an audio drama of the life of Jesus whenever you stop in, and the congreation takes welcoming you seriously: there are even specially-decorated tissue boxes in each pew. The site has a clear evangelical goal but did not strike us as "pushy."

Relevant Links:
International Civil Rights Center and Museum
Mellow Mushroom
Edward McKay Used Books and More
Talking Murals of Mt Tabor United Methodist Church

Relevant Twitter Handles:
GoGreensboro, EdMcKayBooksGBO

Simplicity for a Change

Much of our time this weekend was devoted to good times with friends: TexMex burgers on Friday night prepared by a better cook than me, Elijah's first swimming lesson, a wedding shower for folks from church. We took in a relaxing, nostalgic adventure to match to complete the "good times with good people" vibe, heading to Central United Methodist's Anniversary celebration.

The historic church in Clifton Forge, VA, marked 100 years with a nice event, complete with souvenir tack pins and a mini church history book David Baber wrote for the occasion. Video footage from the church's 1949 fire--shot by the operator of the nearby Masonic Theater--was shown, and many artifacts had been hung on the walls, including a listing of the chruch's active duty military from a previous war, giant Sunday School class pictures with a flood of faces, and the like. The most interesting were photos of the ironic church sign from the day of the fire: The sermon was to be titled "It is Finished," and there was an upcoming lesson on the "importance of prophecy."

If you go to Clifton Forge, you may miss the celebration--but we recommend this church for a visit. It's folksy yet relatively liturgical, often has puppet performances, and features announcements that evoke jolly laughs every Sunday. At Christmas, there is a very impressive nativity on the lawn, too.

Kitsch City, USA

Where can you go to experience such fun as riding down a hill in a big plastic ball? Gatlinburg (and the surrounding area), of course! We retooled our spring break after Justin was scheduled to work two days of it, heading to Tennessee instead of Charleston, SC. We had fun keeping roadside America alive. The mountains were pretty, too, but we think one comes here for the tourist trappiness.

Kim went Zorbing! There are just two places in the world to go right now--Rotura and the Smokies. It makes one feel pretty loopy but is a terrific experience, complete with a friendly staff and AAA discounts. Justin and Elijah hung out on the ground.

In other thrills, Kim rode the Gatlinburg Sky Lift. This ride scared her more than Zorbing but provided detailed views of the town and excellent conditions for people watching. Riding at dusk showed tourist civilization in its best light. Justin and Elijah again hung out on the ground.

Then, there were also tourist attractions that did not require release of liability forms or a willingness to catch a moving chair. We took in Christ in the Smokies, the "new" Christus Gardens. We're very glad the museum has reopened, enjoying the finely-lit nativity scene and the informal exhibit of Jesus movie memorabilia the most. The gift shop is still sparse, but the museum is worthy of your support. Justin can tell you all about its history--we've ebayed for old pamplets and guidebooks from it, and he can explain the symbolism in the scenes and can even point out the "recycled" wax figures now included.

We also visited World of Illusions museum which Kim had last visited at the age of 10 with her dad. It looked old then--and still does today--but is pretty fascinating despite its simplicity and its pre-CGI inception. If you are willing to read the descriptions on the walls, you can learn a bit of magic whiling away 30 minutes. We worry that boardwalk museums--especially those that aren't part of a chain--will become a thing of the past and support them every chance we get. World of Illusions was open "until 10 or 11 [PM] or so" according to the ticket agent when we were there. Sounds like it's going strong.

For a truly trippy putt putt experience, we did Circus Blacklight Mini Golf. It's pretty spectacular low budget fun. We didn't pay extra for the 3-D glasses: it's a good thing--there were many abandoned pairs throughout the course. With glasses, this place would be downright disorienting, but without them, it was an unusual break from the heat of the day. Justin and Kim had one hole-in-one each.

On the Gatlinburg Craft Loop, we saw many non-crafts (manufactured items) but also picked up some great woodworking, particularly at Tim Weberding Woodworking. Justin is very impressed by the shaped candles at Village Candles, and we all enjoyed the welcoming attitude of Alewine Pottery.

If you go, we recommend Alamo steakhouse (particularly the Gatlinburg location) for yummy steaks and the Donut Friar in Gatlinburg's Village for delicious breakfast. The Brookside is a reasonable, family-oriented place to stay. We also get a kick out of the Hollywood Wax Museum--not Madame Tussaud's, but fun and interactive nonetheless. The best place to buy local books seems to be the National Park bookstores. For shopping, there is cheap, interesting jewelry at Earthbound and unique perfume in Scents of Gatlinburg's Southern Rain. Pigeon Forge's Christmas Place is worth a stop, too--but is better stocked summer and fall than spring. If coming from the north, it's an easy visit on the way in, as is Bass Pro Shop Outdoor World--a great place for taxidermy and many flavors of moonpies.

There's plenty of odd things to do here, making it an interesting mecca for us. The Titanic museum, a new construction with a lifesize grand staircase, opened the day we returned home, so we must go back. Someday, we'll go on the Jurassic Boat Ride, too, and I'll take Justin on that spectacular American "nature" trek that is Clingman's Dome...