A Lucky Break: The Homestead

As the fortunate recipients of a gift certificate, we recently enjoyed a marvelously relaxing weekend at the Homestead Resort in Bath County, Virginia.  Halterman weekends aren't usually about calm, but it was lovely to spend a few days in such a grand yet welcoming setting.  It's true what friends have told me:  the Homestead is a unique combination of upscale and low key, luxurious and laid back.  Best of all, we had a true vacation feeling while we were there; just like going on "island time," we went on "mountain time."  Justin and Kim were very happy, and four-month-old Gwen was very welcome.  Four-year-old Elijah enjoyed a weekend at Nana's.

Located on a mountainside in a very rural area, the Homestead is a place to "get away" that's still within driving distance of several East Coast metro areas.  The resort offers a large variety of adventurous and outdoor activities in a gorgeous setting:  guided hikes, off-road driving courses, segway riding, year-round outdoor swimming, falconry, skeet shooting, you name it.  Feeling more laid back, we walked the grounds frequently, and even this simple activity was a delight.  We enjoyed the resort history tour in particular, and Kim "took the waters" in the Jefferson Pools--a fabulously relaxing, inexpensive, and one-of-a-kind type of spa treatment.  The resort is a Canyon Ranch Spa Club site now as well, and there are numerous splurges available. 

If you go, make activity and dinner reservations in advance, even if you are not visiting on a holiday or convention weekend.  We recommend having at least one of the famous buffet breakfasts--they are more expensive than the typical breakfast, but they include just about everything one could ever want for a morning meal.  On the days we attended, there were traditional breakfast bar staples as well as an omlet station, sauteed veggies, fish, and a full complement of bagel toppings including Nutella, honey, and other goodies.   Dinner at Sam Snead's Tavern is casual and cozy, and there's a small coffee shop on grounds, too.  Don't miss afternoon tea in the lobby--a great opportunity to eat dainty chocolates and get to know your fellow guests.  We also recommend visiting during the holiday lights, and note it is possible to stay in nearby Covington and visit the resort for a special meal or activity. 

The Tiniest Train Museum: The Augusta County Railroad Museum

Let us introduce you to the Augusta County Railroad Museum, a wonderful storefront museum full of intricate model railroad layouts.  Staffed by welcoming railroad club members, the large displays on view are well-loved and detailed.  There's even a scavenger hunt all ages can enjoy that will help you focus on those details, including a funeral procession, a ski lift, and a subway station.  The museum was a real treat for our 4-year-old railfan:  he very much enjoyed wandering among the trains, working the controls on the young engineers model, and picking up a free back issue of Model Railroader magazine.  We're sure Elijah will mention it all when he sees club members at Virginia Museum of Transportation events in Roanoke. 

If you go, check the museum schedule:  they are only open on particular weekends.  Plan to spend at least a half hour enjoying the displays and the company of club members.  From the museum, you are within easy driving distance of the Green Valley Book Fair, the giant Factory Antique Mall, and other Halterman adventures tagged Up I-81.

Farm Day: Homestead Creamery Affords Families a Day on a Working Farm

We just enjoyed our first Farm Day at Homestead Creamery, an annual fall event full of farm fun and yummy dairy product tastings.  At Farm Day, kids can pet farm animals, ride a "trackless train" made of 50-gallon drums, climb up on tractors, and play on a mountain of sawdust.  There's a hayride, a blacksmithing demonstration, and a few local crafters, too.  It's a great way for this local, responsible business to "give back," and visitors partake in a really inexpensive day of adventure.  We spent $6 to buy ice cream--and that was it.  Unlike many of the local fall pumpkin farms, attraction-type activities are free.  We were impressed with the staffing, too:  golf cart shuttles from parking, local law enforcement helping direct traffic, and unharried employees explaining cow milking to kids over and over again.  The downside?  It's just one day.

If you go, plan to be outside in crowded situations, and bring a vehicle you are comfortable parking in a field.  We recommend arriving early.  The farm is stroller-navigable if you work at it; we toted our 5-month-old in her car seat carrier and found this convenient, as we could "sit" her down while our 4-year-old enjoyed attractions.  Bring hunger and cash for really good ice cream and fair food...or plan to drive to nearby Rocky Mount for fast food and other conveniences.  For the best online information on Homestead Creamery, search for them on Facebook.  If you are looking for something else to do in the area, try the Booker T. Washington National Monument, blogged here in a Halterman Weekend from a few years back. 

A Little Alleghany Adventure: Gathright Dam and Lake Moomaw

Sometimes, Kim gets nostalgic for childhood picnics with her Mom and Dad.  Back in the early 1990s, we'd take Sunday afternoons and head to outdoorsy places near Alleghany County with snack food and a little Hercules film as a tablecloth.  Kim distinctly remembers Gathright Dam and Lake Moomaw as a favorite spot, having been pretty fascinated by a dam we could drive across.  It wasn't the Hoover Dam, but it was impressive and close to home.  A childhood friend's father worked there, and it was just plain interesting to think about the dam's construction and its role in controlling local flooding.  On our last trip "over home," Kim decided it was time Justin, Elijah, and Gwen enjoyed an afternoon there.

On the day of our visit, the recreation areas were hardly crowded, giving the whole place a nice "lost in the woods" feel.  We simply "hiked" a very short, kid-friendly trail to the dam overlook and drove across the dam to show Elijah.  You can also boat, camp, and play--there's a beach on the lake.  A small visitors' center is placed near the dam, but they are serious about closing it at 3 PM.  The best part of our trip?  We learned Elijah enjoys going for a walk in the forest.

If you go, know you won't find many directions on the web, so don't be overly reliant on your GPS or smart phone for navigation and other information.  While that fact was initially frustrating, it's kind of novel these days to go somewhere without a strong digital presence.  Be ready to drive on roads that are paved but unlined and mountainous.  The closest place for a meal out is Covington, VA, where Kim recommends Cucci's for Italian and James Burke House Eatery for "upscale" sandwiches. 

Justin's Happiest Place on Earth: Gettysburg, PA

No trip to Gettysburg is complete without seeing some of the monuments.  We say some because there are literally over 800 on the battlefield honoring brigades, veterans from certain states, clergy, and others.  If you are Justin, they represent historic events and figures.  If you are Kim, they represent an interesting period in American tourism and means of creating memory that are both sacred and profane (read a little Durkheim).  Our beloved nerdiness aside, the monuments are attractions in themselves, especially for kids.  You can climb the New York and Pennsylvania monuments, two of the largest on the battlefield, and Elijah enjoys "climbing" the elevated Peace Monument, fascinated by the concept of the eternal flame.  You can also go up the Longstreet Observation Tower on Confederate Avenue and get a great view of the overall site, associated monuments, and the Eisenhower Farm.  Elijah surmounted it for the first time this year.  We recommend visiting quieter sections of the battlefield as well--Barlow's Knoll is a particuarly peaceful site with many monumental cannons--as well as the monuments to well-known figures (the humble Longstreet, the Lincoln Speech Memorial, and Father Corby statue in particular).  Tour in your car, on your motorcycle, on a rented Segway, or on horseback. 

If you go, visit the National Park Service Visitor's Center, getting your picture taken with the Lincoln statue and taking in the Cyclorama and/or museum.  The new visitors center is spacious, but the bookstore is no longer fully controlled by the National Park Service, meaning some of the "academic" books and resources available are, well, less than academic.  There are still good finds in the store for history buffs--you just have to have a willingness to evaluate them.  Don't bother with the DVD Gettysburg Monuments and Statues and Their Stories, a showcase of 75 select monuments on the battlefield--Justin can teach you more.  Serious book buyers should still join Friends of Gettysburg for a valuable discount.

Relevant Twitter Handle:
@visitgettysburg

More Off-the-Beaten Path Museums: Gettysburg, PA

Justin has taught Kim, a former self-professed "museum snob," the true joy of smaller, roadside collections.  What some museums lack in curatorial credentials they make up for amply in charm.  Now, we both seek out all types of museums:  the "fancy," the classic, the strange.  Recently, we visited two truly American museums in Gettysburg, PA. 

The National Civil War Wax Museum is home to a variety of wax tableaux.  If you are a student of wax museums, Justin can explain to you how the museum has changed over the years.  When visiting, we review the fire escape plan and note changes--really.  Several of the more innovative displays endure each year, including one honoring the Underground Railroad that allows viewers to "see" a basement hiding place (pictured).  This year, the 51-year-old site changes hands for the first time--but we were thrilled to find it plans to reopen in 2014.   On this visit, it was disappointing to learn the animatronic President Lincolns before the "battle room" finale and in the finale itself are broken beyond repair, but this does allow local Lincoln impersonator James Getty some more work (he's filmed for the battle room Gettysburg Address).  Gettysburg is full of places to buy souvenirs, but the National Civil War Wax Museum hosts one of the largest shops.  Want to see more images from the museum?  Start your search at the awesome wax museum blog Houses of Wax.

We also visited the Lincoln Train Museum again, taking it is renovations since our first trip in 2010.  The collection still features model trains visitors can control by push buttons and a train "ride" profiled in great fanfare in The Washington Post a few decades ago.  They've given the train ride a more patriotic spin, and Lincoln impersonator James Getty again has more work:  he's featured in the museum opening and in the "new" train ride.   The collection is interesting, and while the renovations take a stab at focusing more on Lincoln's funeral train, it's basically a site to take in train models.  Take time to engage the friendly staff and have them tell you about the museum owner, a longtime sherrif in a nearby community who owns several Gettysburg attractions and his own interesting collection of Presidential memorabilia.

If you go, we recommend staying in town, preferably on or near Steinwehr Avenue, so that you can walk to the museums--and lots of cute casual restaurants and the town square to boot. 

Tabernacle Time: The Biblical Tabernacle Reproduction in Lancaster, PA

Inspired by a postcard show find, we had to see Biblical Tabernacle Reproduction at the Mennonite Information Center in Lancaster, PA.  Once there, we enjoyed an informative lecture on the tabernacle itself and were treated to a detailed presentation of the replica from a knowledgeable guide.  While not a "hands on" museum, the replica is built to Biblical size and includes all the Biblical details.  We found our guide, Roy, was able to explain what parts of the tabernacle story are Biblical and which ones have grown from extra-Biblical traditions.  It's a recommended stop for anyone with interest in Christianity or Judaism.

When we found the postcards that inspired our visit for all of 10 cents each, our Sunday School class was studying the tabernacle, in part using a small model you can buy at the center's impressive gift shop.  They sell tabernacle-related religious items, books, and local interest finds like Amish Country postcards and Sight and Sound Theater DVDs--and host a Ten Thousand Villages fair trade shop.  And yes, they have site-specific postcards of the tabernacle replica--a good thing, because in the main section of the reproduction, there's a no photos rule (forgive the lack of photos here).  You can even shop their online store. 

If you go, expect a very friendly, accommodating staff.  They genuinely wanted to meet our needs and were quite pleased we were traveling with children.  The staff can point you towards many local activity options, including guided farm tours.  The center is directly across from Tanger Outlets--yes, you could walk between the sites.  If you are on the road with small children, see our previous blog about nearby Dutch Wonderland.  If you are traveling with a history buff, know you are about an hour from Gettysburg!

Simple Provisions: Holden Beach, NC

One of our simplest Halterman adventures is one of the best:  the annual trip to Holden Beach, North Carolina.  Simply put, Holden is an outstanding family beach full of lovely rental houses on an island in Brunswick County.  In about an hour, you can be in the hustle and bustle of Myrtle Beach, but the rest of the time, you can bask in Holden's calm.  It's the perfect sit-and-read-and-talk beach. 

We discovered a new "cheap date" this year:  the Provision Company restaurant.  It has a great atmosphere, an outstanding view of the Intercostal Waterway, good food, and really bad parking that they treat as a mark of pride.  For a touch of Key West in North Carolina, we recommend it.  For a sweet treat afterwards, cross the bridge and head to Sunset Slush for gelati, a blend of Italian ice and ice cream.  Take advantage of the Town of Holden Beach's Parks and Recreation tide dye program in the high season and make a tye dye T-shirt for $3 at the pavillion under the bridge--and since you'll be standing in line in the heat, it's another good excuse to visit Sunset Slush.  It was a bittersweet season making our last trip to the now-closing Lowell's Bookworm, a "bookstore in the classic tradition" we've visited many summers.  Yes, we bought their commemorative T-shirt.  When out shopping, you should still stop at Sugar Britches on the causeway for unique items including etsy-esque handmade jewelry--it's going strong.

This year, we stayed at an outstanding beach house--Hobbs Realty's Carolina Peach.  The owners post the story of their exceptionally clean, attractive home in its dining room, and we felt connected to them even though we've never met.  We also saw our first mama turtle (if you don't know about the Holden Beach Turtle Watch, you should) and drove to Wilmington, NC, for Guinevere Lawton to meet her namesake Great Uncle Lawton Halterman.

If you go, don't miss the Holden Beach pier, profiled on our previous blog and a great experience for young kids.   

Relevant Twitter Handle:
@HoldenBeach

Touch a Truck!!

We were thrilled to be in town for Roanoke County Parks and Recreation's Touch a Truck at Green Hill Park.  We surprised Elijah with a visit, and at age 4, he thoroughly enjoyed it and firmly requested we come back next year.  The free-admission event is exactly what the name implies--a day when vehcles of all types park on the spacious fields and kids are allowed to explore them.  It's become an annual event and is apparently the largest such event on the East Coast.  As Elijah was quick to indicate, there were more vehicles to touch than trucks.  Among his favorites were a police car, a Red Cross 18-wheeler with a kitchen on board, and an inmate transport vehicle.  There were ambuances, firetrucks, cranes, SWAT vehicles, a VDOT snowblower...even a utility bucket truck that lifted volunteers in the air.  With about 100 vehicles, it was a great place to spend a few hours of pure childhood. 

If you go, prepare to be outside and active no matter the weather--and definitely wear sturdy shoes for climbing construction equipment.  We were hit by showers, but the event went on without a hitch.  There was a pit of fireman's foam (and a firehose "sprinkler" for afterwards) for those interested.  Elijah was more interested in the daisy-chaining of fire trucks to make the sprinkler work, but if your kiddos want to play in the foam, bring towels and quick-drying clothes or swimsuits.  There are some concessions, including local favorite Homestead Creamery ice cream, so don't forget some cash for snacks.  A backpack for carrying freebies may also be helpful; we came away with a new frisbee and fire helmet.  Expect to park in a field, and if you or anyone in your party is startled by honking horns, be prepared.

Relevant Twitter Handle:
@Recreation

A Real Castle in the Sand: Myrtle Beach's Hidden Gem, Atalaya

For this year's "Myrtle date," Justin and Kim went to Huntington Beach State Park to see Atalaya, an historic homesite.  Both of us had seen small features about Atataya in older tourist literature (from before the Grand Strand had more "whiz bang" attractions), and both of us had attempted to research Atalaya online.  Justin had heard it was "ruins;" Kim had heard it was a "castle."  Neither was exactly true, and we were most pleasantly surprised.  Here's a highly-recommended Myrtle Date for those with an interest in history and the more peaceful side of the Grand Strand. 

Within Huntington Beach State Park, Atalaya sits near the shore of Huntington Beach, reasonably near the south end of Myrtle Beach.  It is a piece of 20th century Moorish architecture created by the philanthropic Huntington family as a winter retreat.  A quick tour informs you of the Huntingtons generosity--and their sense of social justice.  Thinking about the time period in which the estate was built creates a sense of the surreal:  Atalaya is nearing 100 years old and was build during a time when most of this section of the Grand Strand was full of run-down plantations.  It's also an interesting site for art.  Anne Huntington was a sculptress, and she kept live animals on the grounds (including bears!) as subjects, bringing them down with her from New York.  At the site, expect walkable brick grounds that are decently preserved but essentially unfurnished.  Be fascinated with the architectural details, including a large clothes drying "room" and a small but well-designed guttering system near the walks.  There's also a one-room interpretive exhibit.

We recommend touring the site on your own--after engaging the volunteers that staff Atalaya in good conversation, of course.  You'll pay a small fee to enter the park (about $5 per adult) and add on admission to the home (about $2 per adult).  If you are very interested in the Huntingtons, spring for the add-on audio tour--it features Anne Huntington's voice.  Consider contacting the park before you go; while it is difficult to find some of the information about the site online, they do "ghost walks" at night and have other fun options in the park including alligator talks.  Parking for Atalaya is plentiful and close to the shore as well, so walk out to the beach.  A beach house for changing is very nearby, and there are many fine spots for a picnic.  The park gift shop is nearby and boasts a solid selection of souvenir Christmas ornaments, some postcards, and some gear you might need in the park. 

If you go, consider tagging on a trip to Brookgreen Gardens, another site with Huntington family connections, particularly if you are in the area in the off season.   The gardens are essentially across the street, and they feature many seasonal events.  Justin recommends reading The Remarkable Huntingtons, Archer and Anna: Chronicle of a Marriage by Mary Mitchell and Albert Goodrich for good background, as the role of the Huntington marriage is important to both sites and to understanding the family (the book is generally cheaper on site than at Amazon).  If you're looking for more time on site, there's an annual arts and crafts festival at Atalaya in September.   Be mindful of how close you are to Market Common, Coastal Grand Mall, and Broadway at the Beach--it's pretty easy to tag on a part-day trip to Atalaya with another attraction, too.  If you are at any area within the Brunswick Beaches and/or the Grand Strand, Atalaya is driveable adventure. 

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@SC_state_parks
@Brookgreensc

A Little Lex-perience

Our newest addition has been enjoying several close-to-home trips.  We're being a bit more sensible than when Elijah first arrived, although Kim's travel hunger has been returning full force.  In any case, it's`been pleasant to enjoy some places that are not too far afield.  Consider our small adventure to Lexington, Virginia.

We visited the VMI Museum, largely to see some "new" Stonewall Jackson artifacts relating to the 150th anniversary of his wounding and death.  The VMI Museum is small and worthwhile, and the displays include a mock-up of a VMI dormroom, an impressively-displayed collection of guns, and purple hearts from VMI soldiers.  The museum's gift shop is the best in Lexington featuring VMI gear, souvenir Christmas ornaments, and books.  On each visit, Kim makes it a special point to remember Josh Hurley, a friend from the Alleghany High School Class of 1997, who was among the first soldiers killed by an improvised explosive device (IED) in the current war.  

From the VMI campus, it's an easy walk to Washington and Lee, also a lovely campus.  The Lee Chapel and Museum chronicles parts of university history and even boasts a small gift shop, but the beautiful grounds may be the main attraction.  On the date of our visit, there were two weddings; if you are making a special trip to see the interior of the chapel, be sure to call ahead to check the schedule.  Justin and Elijah went in search of a smaller historical collection housed in the university's administration building, but we found ourselves locked out on the weekend.

When in Lexington, remember to walk--simply park at the Lexington Visitor's Center for free, take a minute to orient yourself to the area by viewing their excellent selection of information on regional attractions, and walk where you wish downtown.  Both of the museums mentioned here are free to visit, and it is easy to "add on" a visit to the Stonewall Jackson House.  We recommend strolling over to The Bookery, a crowded bookstore in which we've found some history texts and local features.  It's easy to find ice cream to enjoy while you walk, and there's a Macado's for sandwiches.   

Art Venture-ous!

Well, we FINALLY made it to the remodeled Art Venture space at the Taubman Museum of Art!  It's a great space for kids to explore and create--in short, the best of free and spontaneous playdates in Roanoke.  That's right--museum admission is now free for everyone all the time.  In Art Venture, there are numerous visual art supplies to use, including traditional paints, pencils, and papers.  There are also plenty of manipulatives ranging from elementary-school staple pattern blocks to the awesome (and too-expensive-for-us-at-home) Cubicus.  For social play, there's a theatre space with props and seating, too.  For the least expensive experience, take it all in on a Spectacular Saturday when city-owned downtown parking is mainly free as well.  We like to walk from the garage at Roanoke Higher Educaton Center to take in a view of the train tracks and the bus station, but the Tower Garage is also close, as is street parking near Firestone.  If you have a preschooler, we also recommend Young at Art, a free art class for wee ones that typically involves storytime, a quick gallery trip, and an art project all around a theme. 

Even with young kids, don't fail to go upstairs in the gallery spaces where you can at least walk through and talk about what you see.  If it is not a busy day, the security staff can challenge kids to "seek and find" objects in the art.  The collection is varied, and the galleries change with relative frequency.  On a typical trip, you'll find both contemporary and traditional pieces on display for discussion.  Recently, Elijah particularly enjoyed a painting made by dancers' feet, abstract pieces full of circles and lines, and a picture of a yard sale. 

If you go, you can eat lunch at several nifty nearby restaurants--Nawab for Indian food among them.  You'll be very close to the Roanoke City Market area for shopping with a local flavor, and you can walk to the Center in the Square cultural organizations complex, the Hotel Roanoke, the O. Winston Link Museum, and the Roanoke Regional Visitors' Center.  By following the Railwalk, you can also reach the Virginia Museum of Transportation.  It will be easy to make a day of it all!

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@Roanoke_Region
@centertweets

Cemetery-As-A-Park: Lynchburg's Old City Cemetery

It was time to take a brief trip out of town, and we went searching for something unique to do that wouldn't take tons of time or energy in honor of Justin's birthday.  Kim hit the Roanoke Valley Convention and Visitors' Center, and upon picking up a pamplet featuring Lynchburg's Old City Cemetery, the where-to-go decision was easy.  We've been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, and we've read all about how the Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, area developed as a park/burial ground.  Our little trip to Lynchburg provided similar fascination--and a quick getaway from the Roanoke area as we awaited baby Gwen.

In short, the cemetery is a delightful place for an interesting garden walk.  There are civil war period graves, there's an ash garden for pets, and there's a pretty little garden pond. The cemetery also features several "museums," perhaps better termed displays and exhibits, that are worth a stop to hear the associated audio.  We especially enjoyed the Pest House Medical Museum, an interesting glimpse into hygeine and health in early Lynchburg, and the Hearse House and Caretakers' Museum, a memorial of sorts to those who've maintained the impressive cemetery grounds.  Expect to see some minor archeological digging and to be welcomed by friendly staff in the Cemetery Center (do plan to go when the center is open, typically 10-3 Monday-Saturday).  Think about the number of staff and volunteers dedicated to the site--it's impressive!  One challenge: parking, especially on the prom weekend we visited--many teens were on site to be photographed with their dates.    Consider planning your visit when you can most enjoy a nice walk, probably in the Virginia spring or fall. 

When in the Lynchburg area, we always have to direct families with kids to Little Dickens, a fabulous book-and-brainy-toys store that also features a small cafe and a wide selection of used books for various audiences.  One can find local interest books here as well.  Too bad their website does not seem to be accessible as we blog--but do GPS their address, 2236 Lakeside Drive. 

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@visitlynchbrgva 

The Latest Travel Buddy: Gwen

I'm looking forward to catching up on blogging soon--but for the meantime, enjoy this pic of the project from the last 9 months--Guinevere "Gwen" Lawton Halterman.  Small but mighty:  6 lbs, 2.1 oz; 19 in long; 45 degree + head lifter.  Blessed.