Trenches and Earthworks: Pamplin Historical Park, NPS Petersburg National Battlefield

For Labor Day weekend, we decided to visit a Civil War site we'd never seen right here in Virginia.  Kim had bought tickets to Pamplin Historical Park for Justin for Christmas, and we set out to use them.  What a treat--the Petersburg area features multiple sites connected to the activities just before the surrender, and there are amazingly well-preserved trenches and earthworks that illustrate the story.

At Pamplin Historical Park, we explored the property first with Elijah particularly enjoying the trails from site to site.  There's a reconstructed encampment, period buildings, and a simulated trench, all near a pretty spectacular piece of architecture designed to look like earthworks themselves that houses a small museum explaining the events at Petersburg.  Best of all, however, there are earthworks from the war that survive and help visitors envision the "break" in the fortifications at Petersburg, the event precipitating the fall of Richmond and the surrender.  Neither Justin nor Kim could understand how such an important area was overlooked prior to the generosity of the Pamplin family in the 1990s.  There are brief and inexpensive books related to the site's preservation in the gift shop, another bonus.

Admission to Pamplin includes a sophisticated audio tour via MP3.  Your player provides interesting insights outside; in the included National Museum of the Civil War Soldier, the player is indispensible.  The Museum of the Civil War Soldier is a more general museum about camp life, and we recommend taking it in after touring the grounds.  The audio here is highly interactive, including a system that tracks your movement through the galleries and provides insights automatically as well as through your customized requests.  This programming helps make the relatively-small museum more robust.  Don't miss the Trial by Fire gallery, a multi-sensory battle simulation. 

After Pamplin, we were a touch worried we'd be disappointed by Petersburg National Battlefield--how misplaced!  The battlefield features additional authentic earthworks.  The Dictator Trail is a short walk through field and forest that allows one to "climb" up and down some earthworks via stairs.  Most significantly, the trail leads to the dictator cannon--a very large, unique cannon that was used to blast Petersburg city.  We saw a tortoise and some lizards while walking, too.  Driving trails are included with your small entry fee as well, so don't miss the Crater, the site of the infamous, disasterous Battle of the Crater.  The park service has done a fine job interpreting the site, including a replica of the tunnel.  There are few monuments, so you really get the sense of being on the battlefield.  Elijah recommends pushing all the audio buttons on selected, solar-powered placards. 

Petersburg has become one of our most-recommended Civil War trips for people of all interest levels.  We'll be back to check out Blandford Church and Cemetery, as well as the City of Petersburg Museums.  If you go in the summer, be prepared for muggy Virginia weather.  For fast food slightly beyond the norm in the area, we recommend the Petersburg What-a-Burger about two miles from Pamplin (apparently not affiliated with the Deep South What-a-Burger chain).  It would be easy to extend this trip to Tidewater historic sites--the way the birds fly, you are about 45 miles from Yorktown when in Petersburg. 

King of the Wild Frontier: Crockett Tavern Museum

We'd driven by the sign off I-81 several times, but this summer, we decided to take the small sidetrip to Morristown, Tennessee, while driving home from the Smokies.  Here, we'd find the Crockett Tavern Museum, a site honoring the boyhood home of Davy Crockett.  Justin dreamed Crockett history in big terms growing up, and since we visited the Alamo, we've both been enraptued by Davy's story.  In about an hour, we accomplished a short side trip. 

Crockett Tavern Museum is a small cabin-style house museum for exploring with capacity of living history demonstrations on site.  Talking with the executive director was just a treat--it was clear she was there to personalize and enliven any visit, helping the individual connect to the Crockett story and imagine the Tennessee wilderness.  Plus, she genuinely held passion for her job--a great thing to see in tourism!  We perused the history of the site itself, learned about Davy Crockett in popular culture, and had our picture taken with gear in the museum.  Of course, we talked about the real Crockett family--not just Davy--as well.  There's a gift shop, too.

The site is open for an extended season late spring through mid-fall and is not challenging to find from I-81 thanks to GPS and some signage.  It looks like they have a wonderful way of honoring Davy's birthday if you happen to be in the region in mid-August--next year will be the 227th!

And This is Mountain Kitsch: Jurassic Jungle Boat Ride, Hillbilly Golf

If you ever doubted that we like all kinds of touristy fun, here's proof!  We finally visted the Jurassic Jungle Boat Ride in Pigeon Forge, and while we recommend it for Americana diehards like us, we don't think everyone would enjoy it.  It's pricey for what you get, but the boat ride through anamatronic dinosaurs is pleasant.  The property was actually more "high tech" than we expected, and I can imagine a willing five or six year old having a magical time here.  This attraction is of the variety you don't see too much outside of "big theme parks."  If you've read Tim Hollis's Dixie Before Disney, you can imagine Jurassic Jungle Boat Ride being memorialized in a similar work in a decade or so.  We both have fond memories of large animated dinosaurs that would come to the local science museum, and this ride is a less-educational throwback to that part of childhood. 

Now for a tourist spot we believe will endure:  Hillbilly Golf of Gatlinburg.    This legendary spot is still locally owned and features a well-known incline train ride up a mountainside.  When you disembark, you play one of two simple putt-putt courses in the shade.  It's a classic, easy course decorated by farm implements and fake outhouses--pure, low-maintenance fun so simple it doesn't even have an official website.  Kim had great memories of playing as a kid with her mom and dad, and Justin has decided he enjoys inclines and was looking forward to the experience, too. 

If you go, we'd specifically recommend Gatlinburg's Brookside Resort for your lodging.  The "resort" is a classic, locally-owned hotel complex--very retro.  Nice walkable-yet-off-the-beaten-path location--"city close, country quiet" is their motto.  Expect good value with the stream out back; don't expect extremely modern decor.  The vintage look is part of the charm; Justin stayed here growing up, and we'll continue the tradition.  We already have our next trip planned:  Sweet Fanny Adams Theatre, Hauntings Ghost Show, and Clingmans Dome. 

Can't Keep a Wax Museum Down: Hollywood Wax Museum, Christ in the Smokies

Wax museums: great places, but becoming few and far between.  So, with the opportunity to take in two that have made a comeback in the Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, we were excited.

First, the Hollywood Wax Museum.  After a year or so absence from the scene, it's moved recently from Gatlinburg and has a Vegas-esque new facade near the Titanic in Pigeon Forge.  The exterior is quite impressive with a "Mt. Rushmore" of Hollywood legends.  While Tussauds it is not, we still had fun touring inside, taking advantage of many, many photo ops.  Expect some attention to classic shows like I Love Lucy but less attention to 90s phenomena (ex. Austin Powers) than the previous site offered. Before you go, read about the rates for various nearby attractions in "combination tickets," and know that it costs a pretty penny to climb to the viewing deck at the top of the facility (we skipped it). 

For a calmer tour, try Christ in the Smokies, the religious wax museum on the site of the former Christus Gardens.  When Christus Gardens closed in 2008 to make way for proposed condos, we worried--but the economy flatlined and a wax site is back.  The revised museum focuses on the Gospel accounts of Jesus; there's more information about the connections between the Old and New Testaments than on the previous Christus Gardens tour.  Expect a paced tour through dioramas beginning with the Nativity and ending with the Ascention.  If you take time to learn about the attraction, you can take advantage of opportunities to talk about it first hand with owner/artistic director, frequently working on site.  We believe the Jesus-in-film exhibit at the end of the museum is not to be missed.  Protestants and Catholics would probably be equally comfortable with the tour.  This site does not allow photographs of the main wax museum scenes, but you can take pictures in the garden and in the Tabernacle exhibit near the entry. 

If you are like us and you can't get enough of this stuff, two more notes:  Those interested on more about wax museums in general will be interested in Houses of Wax, and we believe you can still see the Christus Gardens figures at Florida's Holy Land Experience. 

A Titanic Adventure! : Titanic Museum Pigeon Forge

Justin and Kim slipped away for a quick trip to Gatlinburg, TN, in August 2012, choosing the location primarily to mark the 100th anniversary of the Titanic sailing with a trip to the Titanic Museum.  If you've driven in Pigeon Forge in the past few years, you know the building: the one that is a giant ship, of course.  It's quite the impressive display.  Our vote is that it is well worth your time:  two big thumbs up.

The experience is immersive, the atmosphere grand.  The exhibits capture the Titanic from its beginnings in drafting rooms to its contemporary rediscovery under water, contextualizing it nicely.  If you're paying attention, you'll garner a lot of information from rare artifacts on display, including menu cards and trip planning brochures for various "classes" of passengers.  Several artifacts are one-of-a-kind items that humanize the idea of the Titanic.  The overall experience is touching without being melodramatic; your understanding of life through the eyes of the great ship grows through truly understanding the cultural role of the voyage. 

You'll find a better selection of related academic books at amazon.com, but there was great selection of Christmas ornaments in the gift shop for Kim.   The Titanic Museum's an obvious stop for those who enjoy seeing history interpreted for a broad audience, and the contemporary museum design is interesting from a museum studies perspective.  Kim's been reading about the concept of memorialization in America, and if you read in related sociology/cultural studies, you should definitely go as well. 

We recommend you eat at nearby Partridge and Pear--The Christmas Place's own restaurant.  It's close to fun holiday shopping, of course, but it also represents an excellent lunch value:  yummy, homestyle food with a creative twist at a very fair price.  We were stuffed, but we hear great things about dessert. 

Pirates Meet Ghosts of the Swamps: Pirates Voyage and Myrtle Beach Ghost Walk

Even though we've only done so twice, we've decided we have a new tradition: a Myrtle Beach date for our anniversary treat.  We had a stunning experience again this year at Pirates' Voyage, a dinner show that is pure fun.  The pirates better fit the beach than the Dixie Stampede formerly on the site, and this year, the show was even more impressive to us.  We had excellent front row seats without paying for preferred seating (our best explanation is that we booked early).  This year, however, there was no American Express discount.  We continue recommend being there when the doors open, enjoying the preshow and taking time in the gift shop before the show when it is substantially less crowded.  

The presentation of the Pirates' Voyage show is so dynamic that our thoughts always turn into "How'd they do that?" questions.  How'd they find a cast that could do acrobatics and swimming?  How'd they figure out how they were going to make all this food service happen simultaneously?  It's all very fun to think about, in large part because the show is so seamless.  Don't go looking for plot or the same kind of fun you'd have seeing a great work of literature on stage--but do go looking for all-out enjoyment and spectacle.  We go as a couple, and we're confident the show's tons of fun for most elementary-aged kids. 

We've also developed a preference for the earliest show, affording us an opportunity to enjoy Barefoot Landing at night afterwards, a throwback to Kim's childhood.  This year, Justin surprised Kim with ghost walk tickets to the Myrtle Beach Ghost Walk with Ghosts and Legends.  We'd always said we'd go sometime--and Justin, seeing a sign in the window indicating "last season," rightly felt we'd better step on it.  Our tour was a charming walk with a fabulously knowledgeable, passionate, and confident guide in Penelope the Pirate, one of the best guides we've seen on any ghost tour.  There was an unexpected and pleasant side trip to the House of Blues, and a good bit of North Myrtle Beach-area history was included.  If you follow this blog, you know we do ghost tours to hear local stories and get a flavor for local cultures--and this tour definitely delivered!   We also recommend the Ghosts and Legends show (presented every 30 minutes in their building) and suggest anyone who likes books of local legends stop in their gift shop. 

More good news: the business is for sale. We're among the hopefuls that it's not really the last season! For info, give them a call or try a google search for the listing.  We wish the original owners good luck as they drive their DeLorean cross country raising funds for health research. 

For more of our recommendations in Myrtle, see another Myrtle Date here and a family spring break trip here.  We did not go to Alligator Adventure as we'd initially planned, largely because we had a very unresponsive customer service experience with them ordering tickets as gifts this spring.  We'll think about it for next time but did not have good success purchasing tickets through their online interface or trying to contact the business via email, social media, or phone. 

Ship bound!

Justin and Elijah took in Jamestown Settlement (formerly Jamestown Festival Park) this summer.  They tell me, their humble blogger, that they really enjoyed the ships, exploring every inch of them.  The festival park is the site of Jamestown's living history exhibition and includes reconstructions of the ships and dwellings of settlers and Native American Indian constructions.  Our son wanted to be sure he visited each of the Powhatan homes furnished with furs and turtle shells.  At the fort, expect artillery demonstrations with cannon fire, and you'll have an opportunity to try on armor from the time period.  Don't be one of the folks there that says, "So this is where the Pilgrims landed?"  That's a different place, plus you'll view an immersive museum on your way in that should contextualize Jamestown nicely.  Do ask questions (or read more) about Jamestown history, which has been fairly sanitized here. 

If you haven't been to the park (or haven't been in a while), know it was remodeled for the 400th anniversary of the Jamestown settlement in 2007. The center now welcomes you with flags from all 50 states, a large lobby/ticketing area, and a pretty comprehensive gift shop. The food in the food court/cafeteria is perfectly acceptable for families and student groups.  They sell some unusual "local" foods including peanut soup and bread pudding, as well as classic tourist food like pizza.  It's good food, but the ordering environment can be confusing and the food's a bit pricey.  If it is going to be a hot day, go early and do the outside exhibits first, returning to the museum.

If you have more time, drive out to Historic Jamestowne, a site that incorporates a great deal of information on historic preservation and archeology because it is the site of the original settlement.  It's typically the Jamestown we hit--we really like the walk it affords across a small marsh on a nice wooden bridge, not to mention the walk along the water to the Archaearium (museum of archeology).  And if you know us personally and are headed here (or anywhere in the area), you simply must talk with Justin.  He'll give you great tips.  Also very nearby?  Jamestown Glasshouse, a free live demonstration of glass blowing with an attractive gift shop selling glass creations and souvenirs.

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@Virginia1607

Dinosaurs and Potato Chips, Oh My!

We asked Elijah if he wanted to see some dinosaurs and went in search of old fashioned roadside amusement, heading for Dinosaur Land near Winchester, VA.  What a fanciful place full of outdoor sculptures of dinosaurs--not to mention King Kong, an octopus, a shark, and some oversize bugs.  At $4 to $5 entry a person, it's a bargain as far as dino attractions go.  It's also terrific for preschoolers and young elementary-aged kids.  Fences allow for some running, and the sculptures are captivating.  If we lived closer, it would totally be the site of a birthday party.  The attraction is almost 50 years old, and the gift shop sells plenty of classic souvenirs.   Interesting sculptures include uniquely-positioned birds and a dino attack scene, a la Jurassic Park movies. 

If making the journey from Roanoke, consider stopping at one of the many other attractions "up I-81."  Options certainly include the Route 11 Potato Chip Factory, a pop-in factory "tour" that involves viewing the potato chip creation process for yummy Route 11 chips.  If buying, Justin recommends the lightly salted, Kim recommends dill pickle, and Elijah recommends BBQ.  There are plenty of samples, it's free to visit, and given the nature of the viewing, there are no age restrictions.    For other ideas, see our posts about The Factory Antique Mall, Green Valley Book Fair, Johnny Appleseed Restaurant, and the Shenandoah Caverns Family of Attractions (or click their live links for their websites). 

Surprising Charlotte

For Father's Day, Elijah and Kim gave Justin a "surprise trip" to the Billy Graham Library in Charlotte, NC.  Justin and Kim are enthralled with Reverend Graham's access to statespeople and the level of history he witnessed, and when Kim discovered the trip was a shorter drive than expected, it became the centerpiece of Father's Day weekend.  The trip was pretty perfect--and in one day, we had a "vacation feeling."

While Christians may be more comfortable there, we'd recommend the Billy Graham Library to any of our friends interested in religion, politics, American culture, and/or museum design.  The experience at the modern library is immersive--much video, exhibit rooms designed to give a sense of place, artifacts selected to appeal to a broad audience.  The videos are an effective montage of Graham quotes, but the museum is more about the reach of his ministry than him per se.  If you go, know the volunteers are very friendly.  There's a large bookstore with Christian classic titles and books by the Graham family--but for books about Reverend Graham by others, head to the nearby Barnes and Noble. 

And it was in driving around looking for said Barnes and Noble that we found the James Polk historic site--a tribute to a President who, as Justin points out, was efficient, honest, and productive (and perhaps sadly therefore, largely unknown in popular history).  We received a very warm welcome at the small complex, a vistor's center as well as a small museum.  A quick tour of the grounds, including an interesting cemetery, is possible in 30-45 minutes. 

We can't believe Charlotte, the "Queen City," had escaped our notice for so long.  It's more of a major city than we understood, and there's definitely more to do there than we realized.  We'll be back!  Nearby attractions on the to-do list:  Levine Museum of the New South and Reed Gold Mine.

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@TheBGLibrary
@Charlottgotalot

Gone Farming

We visited the Frontier Culture Museum in Staunton, VA, to find it much expanded since our last trip when we were dating in the early 2000s.  At that time, there were four farms--a great lesson in Shenandoah Valley cultural geography.  Now, there are even more farmsites, and the site has additional potential for learning American history for those with and without relevant academic background. 

One of the things that most impresses us about the site is the attention to strong interpretation.  It's in a different class than many other living history sites we've seen, as the interpreters are conversant in history itself as well as in the history of their institution, in authentic demonstration techniques as well as in audience engagement.  In a time of museum "shrinking," this site has made it and expanded, most recently to additional early American farmsites and to an African farmsite.   As home to many animals (roaming free or roaming within a fence), it's also a great living history site for children.   We loved the "wobbly lambs."

And did we mention they have cats?

If you go, dress for outdoor weather and walking.  Consider lunch at Rowe's afterwards.  The Factory Antique Mall, Green Valley Book Fair, and the Route 11 Potato Chip Factory are nearby treats.  One of our prior trips is blogged here.  Our friends have a gourmet grocery store in town, the Staunton Abbey.  Look them up on Facebook. 

Relevant Websites:
Frontier Culture Museum
Visit Staunton

Relevant Twitter Handles:
@FrontierCulture
@Staunton

Imagination

Kim sought some "Mommy time" with Elijah and headed to the Greensboro Children's Museum one Saturday in March.  We had a very active, wonderful visit.  The museum is a great one for the preschool and early elementary school set--lots of opportunities to play pretend!

Set up as a "town," the museum features themed play areas including a post office, a mock campsite, and a construction site complete with a block pit.  The organization has cultivated community involvement, and many play areas incorporate "real" items.  There are several vehicles on display for crawling and exploring, and the supporting details for dramatic play are all present.  For example, the in house fire truck is set up for kids to climb in, and there's also a nearby hydrant and hose.  Elijah's favorite area was the train station, anchored by a kid-sized train with sound effects.  Outside, there's a well-developed outdoor classroom with climbing trees, free-range chickens, kid-tended gardens, and fun paths to explore.  A green emphasis is apparent, and Elijah loved the recycled feed sack constructions he could crawl through.   

Other features include a gross motor play area, toddler area, and visual art zone.  One of our favorite "pluses?"  We ran into so many friendly kids who easily incorporated Elijah in their play! 

If you go, know that there is a large garage near the muesum with free weekend parking.  The Green Hill Center for North Carolina Art, including ArtQuest for kids, is also nearby. 

Relevant Websites:
Greensboro Children's Museum

Relevant Twitter Handles:
GCMuseum

Green Beauty From Old Industry

We knew Chattanooga, TN, had a messy-looking past.  At one time, the city was decaying.  It's had quite a new south renaissance, and it's so hard to envision the past within today's visionary city planning.  There are free electric-powered buses running downtown, reclaimed rail bridges turned pretty pedestrian overpasses, and even decorative manhole covers.  The overall feel is of a welcoming city that's moving forward. 

Arguably, the centerpiece of the "visitor" area of downtown is the Tennessee Aquarium.  The complex is large and attractive, complete with a butterfly garden and a welcoming entry area that includes water features in which children can play.  The jellyfish, penguins, and river otters are "can't miss."  Definitely allow 2-4 hours for a visit. 

Spend time walking the bridges (we recommend the pedestrian bridge) and taking in views of the park and river.  From the bridges, you are close to other attractions like the Hunter Museum of American Art and some shopping and dining on the North Shore.  Coolidge Park is worth a second look; its carousel is a story in itself. 

If you go, take note that you are within walking distance of several yummy restaurants, including Mellow Mushroom, and Chattanooga's signature MoonPie General Store.  While you can pay extra for a hotel extremely close to the aquarium, hotels such as the Sheraton Read House may be less expensive while still quite "walkable" to the riverfront. 

Related Websites:
Tennessee Aquarium

Lookout Mountain!

Our most gorgeous trip of late?  Lookout Mountain, TN/GA, a short drive "up" from Chattanooga.  We spent a stunning spring day atop the mountain, seeing Rock City, riding the Lookout Mountain Incline Railway, and walking Point Park. 

Without a doubt, everyone should see Rock City just like the old red barns said.  You should also read Tim Hollis's book on the attraction, as an understanding of its history makes the trip powerful Americana.  Rock City itself is a combination of gardens, kitsch sculpture, and roadside tourist stop.  Justin's favorite part is Fairyland Caverns, a blacklit display of vintage storybook sculptures in a rock-themed environment.  It's a pretty incredible example of US mid-century tourism, fantastic for nostalgia as well as for small children today.  Today, it hosts special events with unique themes, including days with local artists and holiday events. 

The Lookout Mountain Incline Railway is a pretty pleasure ride and a soft thrill.  Surprisingly, it is actually part of the local public transportation system.  From the incline, you can see a cozy shop called Mountain Memories that is worth your time later for souvenirs, chats with friendly shop staff, and a dash of Ruby Falls history.  We rode the incline from the top down and then back up, our recommendation for anyone afraid of heights.  We also discovered that you can park for free at the nearby National Park Service site (3 blocks away) and walk, avoiding metered parking. 

While you're enjoying yourself, it's interesting to note that the mountain was home to an important late battle of the US Civil War.  Impressively, the battle included a Union charge up the steep side of the mountain.  The "battle above the clouds" is showcased with a pay-per-view diorama and a small National Parks Service exhibit.  Point Park itself affords excellent views of Chattanooga and the Tennessee River, and it was the first NPS site for US Civil War history. 

If you go, take a well-prepared camera, as there are stunning views everywhere.  We skipped lunch and returned to Chattanooga for an early dinner, but the mountain is a great place for a picnic.  Our experience was that St Elmo, the town to which the Incline "arrives," was less full of shops and restaurants than we hoped.  Drive carefully on the mountain; it's a residential area with twisty roads, steep grades, and frequent stop signs.  Also on the mountain?  Ruby Falls.  Look for attraction combo tickets if you are visiting more than one place. 

Relevant Websites:
Rock City
Lookout Mountain Incline Railway
Point Park

The Lost Sea

On our drive back from Chattanooga, TN, we visited one of the Southern Highlands Attractions I'd always wanted to see:  The Lost Sea Adventure.  You know:  the caves with the boats!  Growing up, I dreamed of visiting these and would always pick up brochures from travel centers, wondering what it would be like to ride boats on the underground lake in the caves.  It was high time to find out.

Lost Sea Adventure welcomes you with a bright tunnel into the Earth, Elijah's favorite part of the trip.  Then, there's caverns--very open caverns with high ceilings and beautiful lighting.  We learned that the caves were one of the first electrified attractions in the region, and folks once came just to see the lights.  No wonder, as the lighting is some of the most beautiful we've seen in a commercialized cave.  On the tour, you descend slowly towards the famous multi-acre lake, hearing stories along the way (like how civil war soldiers left graffiti on the walls) and taking in various formations (like cave flowers). 

The lake itself is a little treasure, America's largest-known underground lake.  As Justin puts it, it doesn't look exactly like it does on the brochures.  The lighting is more mysterious, and the "glass bottom" boats are boats with strips of glass in the center.  However, you do see trout while riding aboard, and the sensation of looking down 30-50 feet to see the beauty of some lit cavern features is something else.

To fellow roadside attractions fans and families with children, we recommend stopping off in Sweetwater, TN, if you are in the area for the experience; the drive from Chattanooga to Sweetwater is an easy one.  The caverns are humid, limiting the need to "bundle up."  Be prepared for a few heights, and know many pathways are packed clay when picking your shoes.  There is a "village" of other attractions on site, but these were less impressive to us.  We did score vintage souvenirs in one of the gift shops, including old logo tac pins and postcards.  A loss?  No souvenir Christmas ornament. 

Relevant Websites:
The Lost Sea Adventure